Handyman2YourRescue

Top 20 - 2011 inspection photos from house inspector

2012-01-02T05:36:00.000-08:00

It is good to review what not to do at times. Hockey pucks are not meant to seal up leaks in the siding and sleds are meant for riding down a hill, not what those people did. I will give credit to the creativity used, but it is usually cheaper to just do it right the first time.
Check out the fine work of some home improvement trainees.

http://www.structuretech1.com/2011/12/top-20-home-inspection-photos-2011/

I do not endorse this business or know these people, but I do know good information when I see it.

Help Seniors Avoid Night Fright

2011-10-03T12:33:00.000-07:00

1. Encourage seniors to obtain a routine connection to someone, a person they talk to every day, a machine that checks on them, there are lots of options.

2. At night play soft music which has a calming effect.

3. Install night lights to make it easier for seniors to see when they get up at night.

4. Light the outside of the house and set timers to activate some indoor lights. Older adults feel more secure knowing their house is illuminated.

5. Let your older loved ones know they can call you. Put your number or that of another family member or friend on speed dial.

6. Reassure them the house is secure and rehearse them on the process to make sure their doors and windows are locked.

7. Make sure the interior of the house is safe by installing grab bars and getting rid of throw rugs.

8. Consider climate control but make sure the house isn't too hot or too cold.

9. Encourage a set routine which helps a senior feel less anxious.

10. Hire a caregiver who can provide assistance from a few hours a day to 24 hours, 7 days per week.

Lawn Mower Safety

2011-04-28T15:10:00.001-07:00

I just got an newsletter from my amazing insurance guy. He had tips for lawn mower safety I thought would be good to pass along.

Lawn Mower Safety

Signs of spring are everywhere! And that means it's time to start mowing your lawn again. Before you get the lawn mover out of the garage, take a few moments to review some mower safety tips.

Fill your gas tank before you start, while the engine is still cold. Wipe up all spills. And never smoke near gasoline.
Clear the area of rocks, branches, wires, and other objects.
Dress properly. Slippery shoes and loose or dangling clothing can be dangerous. Eye protection is also important.
Don't allow children near the mower; you'll prevent the possibility of their getting injured by flying objects.
Keep your hands and feet away from mower's blades. Never reach under the mower for any reason while the mower is in operation. Make all adjustments with the motor off.
Just as you shouldn't drink and drive, you shouldn't drink and mow. Don't operate a mower when your reflexes are impaired by any substance.
Drink plenty of liquids and take occasional breaks while mowing on unseasonably hot days to help avoid heat illness.

Other items to remember if you have an electric power lawn mover:

Don't use on wet grass.
Use an extension cord designed for outdoor use and rated for the power needs of your mower.
Reduce the risk of cutting the cord while you're mowing by starting to mow in the area nearest the electrical outlet, then mow away from the outlet so the power cord will be behind you.

If you do hit a foreign object or have a mower malfunction, remember to turn off the mower and disconnect the power cord before inspecting for damage.

Smoke Detector- Installation and How Many

2011-04-03T09:02:00.000-07:00

Installing Smoke Alarms

Mount smoke alarms in the middle of the ceiling, if possible.
For wall-mounted units, place them at least 3' (1 m) from any corner and 4-6" (10-15cm) from the ceiling. (If you place them in that dead air space the alarm will not notice the smoke in the room right away, because the smoke will roll past that corner and miss the alarm.)
Do not install smoke alarms near heating or cooling ducts.
In mobile home units, install smoke alarms on inside walls.

Smoke Alarm Placement

Maintenance

Test smoke alarms every month. For hard to reach units, use a broom handle or stick to press the test button. Replace batteries once a year. Use daylight savings time as your reminder. "Change your clocks... change your batteries." If the low-battery signal begins to chirp, replace battery immediately. Vacuum the outside covers periodically to remove dust, dirt particles and insects.

Nuisance Alarms

If an alarm regularly responds to cooking smoke or shower steam, consider the following:

Replace the alarm with one that has the silence button feature.
Move the alarm further away to give cooking smoke or steam a chance to dissipate before reaching the unit.
If ceiling mounted, move unit to a wall.
If the unit is the ionization type, replace it with a photoelectric detector. This type of alarm is less sensitive to smaller particles and thus less affected by cooking smoke or small amounts of steam. Packaging and/or owner's manual will indicate type of alarm.

How Many and Where?

For minimum protection, install smoke alarms in each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, such as the hallway, and on every level of your home.

For maximum protection, install additional smoke alarms in each living area of your home.

Single Story Home

Two Story Home

Outside Caulk- It may need replacing after only 2 years?

2010-10-06T15:19:00.000-07:00

Outside caulk is exposed to the elements and can start to go bad after only two years. It is very important that you inspect around doors and windows. If you see cracking, if parts of it are missing or parts of it are starting to pull away from the area, it's time to clean that up and replace it.

Here is some great info on how to do that.
www.ehow.com/how_115542_replace-caulking-outside.html

Good Luck

Placing a Mailbox Post

2010-08-11T15:19:00.000-07:00

I have a client with a leaning mailbox post. I did a little searching on the web and found a lot of bad information about this topic, but there where a couple of very informative sites. Here are some great tips for how to install or fix your mailbox.

This article was informative
http://www.ehow.com/how_4797523_install-mailbox-post-concrete.html

Great tips on regulations and where to find them
http://www.essortment.com/all/installingmailb_tuaj.htm

If you really love a good video, Bob Vila has it.
http://video.bobvila.com/m/21291673/how-to-install-a-new-mailbox-post.htm

I hope I can save you some time if you have to install or repair a mailbox post.

Aging in Place Safety Tips - from design to existing

2010-07-20T06:00:00.000-07:00

If you have someone who is going to be aging in place, don't forget about the home repair and upkeep. This article does a great job of outlining all of the things a person needs to keep in mind.

http://www.toolbase.org/Home-Building-Topics/Universal-Design/aging-in-place-checklists

Deck Neglect: 5 fixes your should not put off

2010-07-14T12:43:00.000-07:00

By consumer reports page 50 June 2010

Here are the critical chores some respondents skipped, the most common problems that surfaced, and tips from experts on dealing with both:

19% never cleaned or power washed

Regular cleaning helps keep dirt, mold, and other debris from ruining the finish.

What to do: Use soapy water and a soft-bristled brush. If you use a power washer, use the widest setting and hold the nozzle at least 12 inches from the surface to avoid damaging the wood.

29% never stained or sealed

A tired finish no longer protects the wood. That leads to dirt, mold, fading, cracking, and splinters.

What to use: the best opaque finished looked good after the equivalent of three years. But don’t count on semitransparent or clear lasting that long.

29% splinters and popped nails

Both are a safety hazard.

What to do: breaking off splinters and sand any sharp edges then apply finish to the spot or to the entire deck, if needed. Inspect all nails, screws, and bolts. Hammer down nails and tighten screws and bolts. Consider replacing nails with screws.

14% mold and mildew

In addition to looking bad, moldy or mildewed boards can be slippery. Some finishes resisted mildew far better than others.

What to do: clean or power-wash the deck boards and remove leaves and other yard waste, especially for desks in shady spots.

10% structural problems

Rotten boards and broken railings or stairs can make any deck unsafe.

What to do: check the deck boards and the platform beneath for rot and insect damage. Pushing on railings and banisters and rest your weight along steps to be sure all are sound and secure.

CR Recommended House & Deck stain:

Behr deck plus solid color

Adding low voltage lighting to your deck

2010-04-10T15:37:00.000-07:00

The following is a reprint from an article in "The Family Handyman" magazine:

Getting Started

About This Project

If the night is calling you, pull up a lounge chair and enjoy it from your backyard. Your deck can be the setting for many relaxing evenings. The key is to add lighting that casts a nice glow over sitting areas, highlights features and illuminates steps and walks.

Low-voltage systems do this well and they’re safe and easy to work with. Unlike with standard household voltage, the transformer that powers them simply plugs into a receptacle. In this article, we’ll show you how to plan a system for your deck and how to install the transformer and fixtures.

Your deck can be the setting for many relaxing evenings. The key is to add lighting that casts a nice glow over sitting areas, highlights features and illuminates steps and walks.

Planning and Layout
Draw Your Deck and Plan the Light Positions

Mark the light fixture locations on your deck plan. Locate the transformer next to an electrical receptacle (if necessary, add one). Draw routing lines for the wiring circuits. For our deck, the post lights (green) highlight the main entrance to the house and light the path to the driveway. The step lights (blue) add safety by lighting stairways. The rope lights (red) highlight the planter boxes and add ambient light. The floodlights (orange) highlight the plants and add to the look from the street.

There are several types of low-voltage fixtures, each designed for special uses (lead photo). To decide on which light fixtures to use where, first draw a rough plan of your deck (Fig. A). On the plan, note at least the following key features: stairs, sitting and congregating areas, nice features such as railings and plantings and traffic paths. Also note the location of nearby receptacles that can be used to plug in your transformer.

Take your deck plan to a lighting showroom to select specific fixtures to light each feature. Ask a sales person to help. Mark the selected fixtures on the plan. Note that a single fixture can sometimes handle several tasks. Next position the transformer on the drawing next to an existing receptacle. If no receptacle is nearby, you’ll have to install one. A receptacle controlled by an inside switch is the most convenient setup.

Draw lines to connect the fixtures to the transformer. Minimize the amount of wire you’ll need by connecting multiple fixtures to a single circuit wire. (This may affect the size wire you need. See “Sizing Circuit Cables,”below)

Next, add up the total wattage for all the fixtures (see “Sizing the Transformer,”below). Select a transformer size that provides at least 25 percent excess capacity. Also decide what features you want with the transformer.

Always try to route wires out of sight. You don’t have to worry about safety. Low-voltage wiring isn’t dangerous. Run the cables under the decking. If a cable must be visible, staple it into a corner or on the least conspicuous surface.

Use insulated staples to fasten the cables to wood members at 2-ft. intervals. The low-voltage wire and the water-proof wire connectors must be buried 6 in. deep into the ground.

Waterproof Wire Connectors are ideal for exterior low-voltage wiring. Strip 3/4 in. of insulation from each wire end. Hold all the ends flush together and twist on a connector. You can get waterproof connectors at home centers, electrical supply houses and irrigation supply houses. If you need help finding a local dealer, call King Safety Products at (800) 633-0232, or visit its Web site at www.kingsafety.com.

Sizing the Transformer

Add the wattage of each fixture to determine the total load. Our deck:
4 step lights x 12 watts	48 watts
3 post lights x 20 watts	60 watts
60 ft. of rope light x 5.45 watts per foot	327 watts
2 floodlights x 20 watts	40 watts
Total	475 watts
Add 25 percent excess:
475 x 1.25	594 watts

The Power Center
Optional features:

Timer switch, which automatically turns the lights on and off at preset times.
Photo eye, which turns the lights on at dusk and off at dawn.
Individually switched circuits, which allow different groups of lights (scenes) to be independently controlled.

Sizing Circuit Cables
(Allows for connecting fixtures with a maximum total of 150 watts)

LENGTH OF CABLE	WIRE SIZE
0 to 50 ft.	Use 12-gauge
50 to 100 ft.	Use 10-gauge
100-plus ft.	Use 8-gauge

Rope Lighting
Attach a power connector to one end of the rope lighting (Photo 9). The cord on the power connector then attaches to the circuit wire with twist connectors. You can connect multiple pieces of rope light with straight and 90-degree connectors, but it’s quite flexible and we were able to bend it around 90-degree corners without the 90-degree connector.

While you can install the rope with clips that mount every foot or so, the best system is a plastic rope light track. Cut the track to length and then mount it with nails or screws. We found that predrilling the back of the track and fastening with 3/4-in. corrosion-resistant screws worked best (Photo 10).

Round up a helper and stretch the rope light along the installed track, then cut it to length (Photo 11) atone of the cutting marks. Start with the end with the connected power cord and push it into the track, working to the other end (Photo 12).

Connecting the Floodlights
Floodlights provide a wash that highlights features. Be careful not to direct the light into people’s eyes when they’re on the deck. Some floodlights come with a hood to reduce glare. A ground stake attached to the bottom of the fixture makes installation a snap(Photo 13). Bury the wire 6 in. deep.

Buyer’s Guide
Here is one manufacturer of high-quality 12-volt rope light. Call if you need help finding a local dealer.WAC: (800) 526-2588. www.waclighting.com. Catalog available on-line.

From The Family Handyman - June 2002

Tips for working alone

2010-02-11T15:51:00.000-08:00

See the link below for some great ways to complete jobs without the help of someone else:

http://www.rd.com/17865/article17865.html

How to change a kitchen faucet

2010-02-02T14:28:00.000-08:00

The following is a great article I found on "The Family Handyman" website:

Installing a new kitchen faucet isn’t tough at all. Actually, the directions that come with your new faucet are probably all you’ll need to do that part of the job. Barring unforeseen problems, you could be washing up under the new faucet in an hour or so.

But what the directions don’t mention are the bugaboos that can pop up while you’re trying to get the old one out. You may be faced with bush-whacking your way through a dark, dank jungle of drainpipes, water lines, a garbage disposer and maybe more, just to access the faucet. Then, you’ll be called on to perform pretzel-like contortions inside the sink cabinet to pull an old faucet with connections that may be so badly corroded you’ll swear they’re welded together.

TIP: Before disconnecting the drain lines, take a Polaroid snapshot or make a sketch of the layout to help you put it all back together.

We’ll show you the unexpected problems that crop up—and how to solve them

Here’s what you need to know to get through the tough parts.

TIP: Prop up a scrap of plywood on some 1-qt. paint cans in front of the cabinet. You’ll be much more comfortable lying under the sink. Otherwise, the edge of the cabinet would be digging into your back.

The Right Stuff
Chances are, you’ll need to make more than one trip to the hardware store for parts, but to give yourself a fighting shot at completing the job with one-stop shopping, consult this list.

Shutoff valves: Before you shop for your new faucet (see “Selecting a Faucet,” below), take a look under the sink and make sure that there are shutoff valves feeding the faucet. If you don’t have shutoff valves, add them. If you have them, confirm that they’re in working order by turning on the hot and cold water at the faucet and shutting off the valves. If the faucet still drips, install new ones. Most likely you have 1/2-in. copper supply pipes. If so, add easy-to-install solderless “compression fitting” valves to your shopping list. But if not, buy whichever valve type is compatible with your pipes.

Supply tubes: Next, measure the existing supply tubes and buy new stainless steel–sleeved supply tubes. They’re designed to give rupture-free service for years and can be routed around obstacles without kinking.

Basin wrench: Also buy a basin wrench ($15). This weird little wrench is made specifically for removing and installing those hard-to-reach fasteners that clamp older faucet assemblies to the sink. (Newer faucets have plastic wing nuts that can usually be loosened and tightened by hand.) A basin wrench’s spring-loaded jaws pivot so you can either loosen or tighten nuts in tight spaces. If you need to remove drain lines to access the faucet, get a pipe wrench or a slip-joint pliers. For cutting copper tubes, buy a conventional tubing cutter. But if your copper supply lines are within a few inches of the back of the cabinet, buy a special mini tube cutter. You’ll also need a set of open-end wrenches for disconnecting and hooking up the water lines.

TIP: Plan on replacing your faucet during store hours. Chances are better than 50/50 you’ll need at least one more part.
Getting At It
After you pull out all of the cleansers, buckets and old vases from under the sink, go ahead and lie under there and see if you can easily access the faucet. If not, it’s time to start dismantling the things blocking your path.

Most likely, the main obstacles will be the pipes and P-traps that drain the sinks. Don’t be afraid to pull them out, but more important, don’t be afraid to replace them with new ones. If you have older, chrome-plated drain lines, the pipe walls may be so corroded that they’ll crush in the jaws of a pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers.

After you remove them, throw all the parts in a box for matching them exactly at the store later. If you have plastic drain parts, be careful during removal—you’ll probably be able to reuse them.

TIP: If you’re replacing the kitchen sink along with a new faucet, install the faucet before setting the sink into the countertop.

Sometimes a garbage disposer can be a 20-lb. roadblock. Don’t be discouraged—it’s easier than you think to remove it and then reinstall it after the faucet is in. Unplug it and pull it out of the cabinet to get it out of the way. If it’s hard-wired, shut off the circuit breaker that controls the disposer, disconnect the disposer from the sink and set it aside inside the cabinet with the electrical cable still attached.

Disconnecting the Old Faucet
The first step in removing the old faucet is to disconnect the water supply lines. If there are no shutoff valves and the water pipes are hooked up directly to the faucet supply lines, or if you’re replacing defective valves, turn off the main water supply valve to the house and cut off the pipes below the connections with a hacksaw or tube cutter. Make sure new valves are closed before turning the water back on to the house. Once the water lines are disconnected, use the basin wrench to loosen the old faucet and remove it.

TIP
With most faucets, only three of the four holes are covered, so you’ll either need to get a blank insert or use the extra hole for a liquid soap or instant hot water dispenser. Plan to do the installation while you’re under the sink with everything torn apart.

Selecting a Faucet
When you’re buying a faucet (as with most other things), you get what you pay for. Faucets that cost less than $100 may be made of chrome-plated plastic parts with seals and valves that wear. They’re OK for light-duty use but won’t stand up long in a frequently used kitchen sink. Faucets that cost more than $100 generally have solid brass bodies with durable plating and washerless controls that’ll give leak-free service for many, many years. Some even come with a lifetime warranty. Quality continues to improve up to about $200. Spend more than $200 and you’re mostly paying for style and finish. Stick with brand name products so replacement parts will be easier to find—in the unlikely event you’ll ever need them.

When All Else Fails. . .
Sometimes, in spite of all your best efforts, it’s simply impossible to loosen the old faucet nuts. Calm down! Try soaking the threads with penetrating oil and try again. If that doesn’t do it, it’s time to pull out all the stops and pull the sink so you can get at the nuts. It’s not that tough to do. Loosen the screws on the bottom of the sink rim for a clamp-down sink, or cut the caulk between a drop-in sink and countertop with a utility knife and lift out the sink. Then you’ll be able to go after those nuts with a locking pliers or a pipe wrench to free the old faucet.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions to mount the new faucet, then remount the sink (with the new faucet) and hook up the water lines as we show.

Kitchen faucet replacement

2010-01-06T11:00:00.000-08:00

A recent client needed a kitchen faucet replaced because it kept leaking despite changing washers. If you have a faucet that needs replacing and you don't want to spend the time upside down on your back disassembling and reassembling feeder lines and lock washers, contact me and I will do it for you. A leaky faucet can cost you money if you are on metered city water and a new faucet can enhance the aesthetics of the kitchen area in addition to correcting the problem. A wide variety of styles are available on the market to choose from so start the new year by making this simple change today and contact me if you need assistance!

Homeowners Summertime checklist

2009-06-24T14:18:00.000-07:00

provided by:

Summer’s heat and dry weather can be tough on your home. A little home maintenance can go a long way to keep your house in good repair. Follow this checklist to stay on top of your home maintenance during the summer.

Outside
There are many home maintenance projects that you can do in the summer to keep the exterior of your home and your yard looking great.

Trim back any trees or shrubs that have grown too close to the house. This not only prevents damage from tree limbs but helps with safety, too, by eliminating any blind spots.
Make sure no water pools or collects anywhere in your yard. Stagnant water is a breeding area for mosquitoes. There will be enough mosquitoes about during the summer without providing them a place to multiply.
Maintain your deck or patio. Thoroughly clean and scrub your deck or patio and apply a deck sealer the next day. You will need sunny, dry weather for this home maintenance task.
Wash the exterior of your house using a garden hose. A pressure washer can actually cause damage unless used by a professional. An attachment on your water hose should be sufficient. You can even buy an attachment that allows you to add a mild detergent to aid in washing your siding.
Repair any cracks in the driveway or sidewalk with a concrete caulk for small cracks or a concrete patch for larger ones.
Take care of your swimming pool. Have it ready for the season and maintain it throughout the summer.

Inside
Don’t neglect the inside of your home. Here are some summer home maintenance projects.

Service your air conditioner. If you have not done so already, have the biannual service done by a professional. Also, change out all of your air filters.
Check the windows and doors. The weather stripping may need some maintenance. Cold air can escape through any cracks here. Caulk around the doors and windows as needed as part of your home maintenance.
Thoroughly clean the dryer lint. Clean the lint trap as well as the exterior vent cap. It needs to be clear to allow air to not be trapped. It can actually result in carbon monoxide backing up into your house.
Clean the icemaker. You are going to need a lot of ice-cold drinks with the summer heat, so make sure that your icemaker is up to the task.
Before you go on vacation, check your home’s security. This is an important part of home maintenance that involves the interior as well as the exterior of your home. You want your yard well-lit and your home easy to see. (With the trees and shrubs trimmed, it should be.) Make sure all the locks work well on the windows and doors. Test your alarm system. Cancel the paper and mail or have a neighbor pick them up for you when you travel. Leave a few lights on or better yet, have them on a timer.

A few hours of home maintenance can help improve the condition of your home and head off any potential problems. A little preventative maintenance can save you lots of money in pricey repairs.

How to Fix a Gas Grill: Step-by-Step Instructions and Pictures By Jeffrey Larson

2009-06-05T10:12:00.000-07:00

With the outdoor barbeque grilling season upon us there may be a need to do a little maintenance/repair on our grills that have been around for awhile. Check out the following link for some great tips on grill repair:

http://www.rd.com/advice-and-know-how/how-to-fix-a-gas-grill-stepbystep-instructions-and-pictures/article128462.html

Home alert emergency response systems

2009-05-26T12:47:00.000-07:00

Recently I was contacted by the family of an elderly woman just returning from a short stay at the hospital. They were concerned for her well-being and were brain-storming ideas to allow her to remain in her home alone, which were her intentions. During her stay she acquired a roommate who had fallen in her home where she also lived alone and was unable to move for a few hours prompting the discussion of a life line system she could contact in an emergency. The family of my client initially utilized the services of the hospital emergency alert system which came with a fee of $30/mo. After doing some research of their own on line they discovered a one-time purchase system that offered many of the same features but required the home occupant to respond to a daily alarm test or friends and relatives would be called automatically to check up on her. The system needed to be installed next to her phone and also had to plug into a source of electricity and also had a battery back-up in case of a power outage. After the initial installation and a couple of call-back follow-ups, my client is very content and feels much safer. As our parents age and wish to stay in their homes by themselves such a system is a great guard against accidents and I highly recommend you investigate that option if you are facing a similar situation with your family.

Spring cleaning your garage

2009-05-25T15:17:00.000-07:00

"Summerize" Your Home with These Spring Projects

It's hard to believe, but the official start of summer is just a few weeks away! Here are some spring cleaning projects you should definitely consider tackling before the hottest days of summer descend upon us.

Air Conditioning
It's important to have your air conditioner in perfect working order before summer starts. Taking care of any issues after the summer heat hits can potentially result in an increase in price, as well as an increase in the time it takes for a technician to visit your home. You should also replace any filters now. Simply remove the old one and take it to your local home improvement center. Sales representatives should have no problem finding its replacement.

Clean out your garage
Organizing a garage can be an excruciating experience during the hot summer months, so if that's something you need to do, don't put it off any longer. Once you clean out your garage, either donate any unwanted items or sell them.

Paint
Late spring is the perfect time to paint the interior of your home since the weather best lends itself to keeping your windows open, allowing the fresh air in and the paint fumes out. If you decide to paint the inside of your home, think about lightening the existing color as opposed to darkening it. Lighter colors are not only inviting, they create the illusion of a bigger, more open space.

Buy fans
Installing ceiling fans and using portable fans are great methods for cutting the heat inside your home. They are also far less expensive to use than an air conditioner. Using fans of any kind also enables you to keep windows open at night, allowing fresh air to circulate throughout the house.

Install dimmer switches
Dimmer switches not only add ambience, they also cut down on energy and the unwanted heat given off by brighter bulbs. Another tip is to use low-wattage light bulbs whenever possible.

Good luck and happy "summerizing!"

Spring cleaning

2009-04-23T14:11:00.000-07:00

Spring has arrived and now is a good time to walk around the exterior of your home and inspect for any damages caused over the winter. If you need some minor repairs, I can be of help. Also, take the time to properly store your winter equipment, whether it be shovels, snowshoes, skiis, skates, snowmobiles or snow blowers. Regarding the latter, either empty the gas tanks and dispose of the contents properly or stabilize the fuel. Also, don't forget to fog the cylinders to prevent rust and corrosion. If you are storing a snowmobile, it is recommended that you unhook the drive belt from one of the pulleys to keep it from stretching in the warm temperatures of summer. Take the time to do it now and don't procrastinate or you will get caught up in summertime activities and forget the seasonal change-over.

Wall switches

2009-02-28T11:46:00.000-08:00

There are various types of wall switches for electrical power.
For example: dimmer switches, combination switch/ receptacles, programmable switches, toggle-type easy to use universal designs for persons of all ages and physical ability. And motion or sound activated switches for on-demand power without lifting a finger.
The three types most often found in homes are single-pole, three-way, and four-way standard design switches. Each can be identified by the number of screw terminals it has; a single pole has two, a three-way has three, and a four-way has four. Newer switches may also have push fittings in addition to screw terminals.
Before installing any type wall switch, turn off the power at your service panel, or the fuse or breaker box. If you are absolutely positive as to which fuse or breaker controls belong to the circuit you will be working on, remove that fuse or trip that breaker. Otherwise, remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker.
Aside from the switch kits, tools required will include:
Screwdriver
Knife or stripping wire
Insulating tape
Hand cleaner
Side-cutting pliers
Cable connectors
Below are directions for installing each of these three types of switches.
Single-pole
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The most common type of switch of all, a single-pole switch usually has ON and OFF marks on the switch lever. It is used to break or feed electrical current to a set of lights, or an appliance or receptacle from one location. In addition to two brass terminal screws, most single-pole switches also have a grounding screw.
Important installation points:
A hot circuit wire will be attached to each screw terminal when correctly wired.
If two cables enter the box, both hot wires attached to the switch will be black; the switch will lie in the middle of the circuit. Neutral wires and grounding wires should be capped.
If one cable enters the box, one hot wire will be black; the other will usually be white. A white hot wire will not be plain; it will be coded with black tape or paint. This type insulation is sometimes referred to a “switch loop;” the switch will lie at the end of the circuit.
When connecting a wire to the terminal screw, always turn the loop on the end of the wire in the same direction as the screw threads. Otherwise, tightening the screw will loosen the loop.
Notes: white wires are generally attached to light-colored terminal screws, such as silver. Black wires are generally attached to dark colored screws, such as brass. If terminal screws are the same color, either wire can generally be attached to either terminal. Green terminal screws are used for grounding wires.
Three-way Switches
These type switches do not have On / OFF markings. They are always installed in pairs; used to control a set of lights from two different locations.
Important installation points:
One screw terminal will be darker than the others (a dark copper or brown); this is the “common” screw terminal; location will vary according to the manufacturer.
Two screw terminals will be lighter in color (usually brass); these are called “traveler” terminals and are interchangeable.
If installation is for a three-way switch in the middle of a circuit, the box should have two cables; one will be a 2-wire cable, the other a 3-wire cable. Connect the black (hot) wire from the 2-wire cable to the darker screw terminal; connect the red and black wires from the 3-wire cable to the two lighter screw terminals.
When the installation is for a three-way switch at the end of a circuit, connect the wires from the 3-wire cable; the white wire will be hot and should be coded with black tape or ink.
Four-way Switches
These type switches have no On / OFF markings; they are always installed between a pair of three-way switches. This makes it possible to control the flow of electricity to a source from three or more locations. Four-way switches are commonly found in homes with large rooms and multiple living areas; for instance, where a kitchen opens into a dining room.
Important installation point:
The box should typically contain two 3-wire cables. With most switches, hot wires from one cable should be attached to the bottom or top pair of screw terminals. Hot wires from the second cable should be attached to the remaining pair of screw terminals.
Not all switches are designed the same way, and some box configurations may also vary. For instance, some four-way stitches may have screw terminals that are marked “Line l” and “Line 2.” A pair of color-matched circuit wires will be connected to screw terminals for one line; another pair of color-matched circuit wires will be attached to the other.
Regardless what type wall switch you install, study the wiring diagram and directions that come with the switch carefully. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines to the “T.” Some switches even have a wiring guide stamped right on the back of the device.
Note: working with electricity is tricky business and can represent a danger if not handled properly. Always use extreme caution when working with electricity. Your wisest choice may be to hire an experienced electrician for all electrical aspects of your remodeling and renovation projects.

Handyman Friday Tip-Leaky Toilets

2009-02-06T16:37:00.000-08:00

I found a really good article about Leaky Toilets.
As I come across these types of great links I will pass them along.

Link
http://www.rd.com/how-to-repair-a-leaking-toilet/article17705.html